SAR Rookie's Guide to the Cibola and NM SAR Packing Lists

My team, Cibola Search and Rescue, has recently had a bunch of volunteers come on board. By which I mean that established members are firmly outnumbered by the new folks. This is a Really Good Thing, as the more people we can put in the field, the better chance we have of finding the search subject, which is the whole point of this endeavor. Besides that, new people tend to be really gung-ho, which means we can make them carry all the heavy stuff like the wheel.

However, every time someone comes on board who's new to SAR, there are a lot of questions about the required gear and clothing list.

NM SAR has a list, the stuff on which you're required to have in order to pass the Field Certification. Cibola also has a gear list, which is essentially the same as the NM SAR list, with a few minor additions. I'm going to go over both lists and give my suggestions.


We'll begin with the NM SAR list, then discuss the additional things that Cibola requires.

Sturdy hiking boots - I'd recommend putting some decent money into these; good boots will save your feet on a long search, as well as protecting your ankles from twisting injury. Budget boots from Big 5, Walmart, or similar sources will fall apart, and do so quite quickly, so you'll be spending as much replacing worn out boots as you would have buying good ones to start with. For 'good ones,' you can expect to spend $150 - $200

We have two options here: full leather, or one with fabric mesh in certain areas. The advantage of the mesh is it will be lighter and breathe better, while the leather will protect from cactus needles. I prefer full leather, but it's up to you.

Full leather

mesh and leather; note the rubber toe cap

There are a couple design features to look for, regardless of what style of boot you choose. A rubber or synthetic toe cap will reduce wear on the leather. Gore-tex or similar lining is good to keep your feet dry in adverse weather. You'll want to carefully inspect the eyelets and lace hooks for burrs in the metal and other manufacturing defects that may tear up your laces.

Finally, you need a boot that fits, and fits well. Thus, I'd recommend against shopping online for boots, as you really ought to try them on. That'd be one advantage to shopping for boots at REI; you have 12 months to decide if they're right for you. However, REI will likely be more expensive than other places you could look.

As an aside, I'd definitely recommend against buying boots used. The leather will mold to the shape of your feet as the boot is broken in, and if you get a boot that's already taken a set to someone else's feet, that's not optimal. Furthermore, boots have a limited lifespan, and a used boot is already well into that span.

I would carry either a spare pair of boot laces, or something you could make laces out of if yours break, such as parachute cord.

Cowhide gloves

Elkskin gloves

Moving on down the list to 'sturdy work gloves.' Leather is a must for these, but don't spend a fortune. I prefer elkskin, which is yellow in color when new and much more supple than cowhide. Cowhide, however, is more durable, but I've yet to have issues with the elkskin gloves. You can find these at Home Depot or Wal-Mart for $10 or so, if you don't already have a pair laying around the house.

Full brim hat

Ball cap

Winter hat

Next we have 'head cover(s).' While NM SAR doesn't specify, I recommend a knit cap to keep your head warm in winter, as well as a lightweight ball cap or full-brimmed brush cap (the military calls these 'boonie hats') to keep the sun off in the summer. Buy for cheap at Wal-Mart. If you go at the right time of year, they may have some bright orange ones in the hunting section. Cibola does specify; we require both a winter hat and a summer hat.

Gloves and/or mittens: I prefer mittens. They'll keep your fingers warmer, since they're not isolated from each other. You give something up in dexterity, but most serious cold weather gloves aren't very dexterous anyways. If you can find them, get some with a long cuff to keep out snow. Buy at sportsman's warehouse or REI. I don't think that Wal-mart carries these kind of gloves.

Wool socks

Liners

Socks : No cotton. Ever. Cotton clothing in general, and cotton socks in particular, are completely unsuited to a wilderness environment, because they do not insulate when wet. Get wool socks, along with a thin nylon liner sock that is worn under the wool sock to reduce friction and protect from blisters. These can be found at REI or Sportsman's Warehouse.

Make sure to keep a spare set in your pack so you can change into dry socks if they get wet from perspiration, or from snow/water/whatever else. This is especially critical in winter months.

Base layer top

Base layer bottom

Next we have the "inner layer," which is long underwear. again, do not wear cotton. You have two options for material with long underwear; synthetic or wool. Wool will last longer and won't get smelly as quickly when you wear it. Synthetics (IE, polyester) are cheaper, and I prefer them because wool makes me itch. Yes, even Merino wool.

Whatever material you choose, make sure it fits skintight; the main function of the inner layer/base layer is to wick away moisture from your skin. Loose long underwear is useless.

I use a set of 'ColdPruf' long johns from Sportsman's Warehouse. You might be able to find non-cotton long underwear at Wal-Mart, but I rather doubt it. REI would be another reasonable source of this sort of clothing, but is more expensive.

Middle / insulating layer - fleece

Middle / insulating layer - down

Middle / insulating layer - synthetic 

The next item is a middle insulating layer, both top and bottom. You have three realistic choices here; polyester fleece, down insulated, or synthetic insulated. Whichever you choose, the point is to keep you warm.

Fleece is typically the cheapest of the three, and tends to be more durable. However, it does not block wind at all, and is bulkier and heavier than an insulated jacket.

Down jackets are the most expensive option, and are water sensitive. Down fill loses much of its insulating capability when saturated with water. For this reason, I avoid down-fill jackets, but I know plenty of people who wear them for SAR and don't have problems. Just be aware that you'll have to keep it dry, both in your pack and while wearing it. However, down is the lightest and most compressible option of the three, so if space and weight are your primary considerations, it might be a reasonable choice. Additionally, many down jackets use a shell that is wind resistant.

Synthetic insulated jackets are more budget-friendly than down, and the insulation is water-resistant. However, they are heavier and more bulky than a comparable down jacket, and I've been led to believe that the insulation does not last as long as down, though I've never owned a down jacket so I really can't comment. Like down jackets, most synthetic jackets are wind resistant. The jacket I keep in my SAR kit, a Patagonia Micro Puff, is synthetic-filled.

You are required to have insulating pants as well as a jacket for the field certification. They are available in all three flavors described above. However, a word of warning: I would not spend a lot of money on insulated pants unless you routinely find yourself with cold legs. I have never worn my fleece pants on a search. They just add too much warmth for my needs. Your mileage may vary, but I would look to get a pair of budget pants, and upgrade later if you find yourself using them regularly.

Shell jacket

Pit zip example

The next required item is a waterproof/breathable shell layer, both jacket and pants. This should be Gore-Tex or one of a dozen similar options (eVent, DryQ, ect, ect, ect) offered by different manufacturers. I've found that all the membrane choices are much of a muchness, and so I'd say to get a jacket that you find comfortable and gets decent reviews for durability and function rather than worrying about a particular brand or flavor of membrane.

One consideration on membrane choice, however. Gore-Tex branded products are guaranteed against leaks by Gore, in addition to whatever guarantee you have from the manufacturer and from the retailer. Unless you totally trash the product or wear it out, Gore will fix or replace it if it fails. That alone may be worth purchasing their stuff over other options.

A couple features to look for: armpit zippers are essential for ventilation during high activity (see illustration above). Pockets should be high enough on the chest that they can be accessed while wearing a backpack hip belt. For the main zipper, I prefer a normal zipper covered by a storm flap to a polyurethane-coated waterproof zipper, as the waterproof zips tend to be stiff and hard to use.

Osprey Atmos AG 65 pack

Next up is a good backpack. This is an item I would definitely recommend buying at REI or someplace else with a generous return and exchange policy. The reason for this is that purchasing a pack is a highly personalized endeavor, and you can expect to go through 5 or 10 packs before you find one you really like. The beauty of shopping at REI for this item is that, if you go into the store, they will measure your torso for proper fit, and allow you to put some weight in the pack and wear it around the store.

A couple general things to look for. First, fit. The pack hipbelt should rest on your iliac crest, which is the bony prominence above your hip joint. This is not where your belt for your pants would rest. If you wear the pack that low, it will hurt your hips. The shoulder straps should meet the pack at or just below the level of your shoulder blades. Again, if you've never done this before, I strongly recommend going into REI and getting fitted by someone who knows what they're doing. Here are a couple articles on backpack sizing and fitting the pack when you put it on

Shop for a pack in the 50-60 liter range, which will be big enough to hold everything you need without being too huge or heavy. You want one with a rigid or semirigid frame. Internal frame packs, which make up the majority of modern hiking packs, sit closer to your back and thus help with balance. External frame packs allow more ventilation for your back, but may be awkward to carry.

Get something with lots of compression straps. You want to be able to snug the pack up if it's not totally full, as well as be able to attach bulky equipment like snowshoes, litter segments, or ropes to the outside of the bag. Look for a well-padded belt and shoulder straps, with reasonably large pockets for stuff like your GPS or snacks. Access is also an important consideration; look for a pack with several zippers that open into the main compartment. I'd stay away from top opening packs that only have one hole at the top; whatever you need is invariably at the bottom.

As far as brand, this is mostly a function of preference. However, I and several others on the team have had good luck with Osprey packs. Not only are their packs good, but their customer service is excellent. Like Gore, if their shit breaks, they'll fix or replace it.

I would not recommend military or military-style packs; they're built to be GI-proof, and thus use very heavy materials and redundant construction techniques that leave them much heavier than comparable civilian hiking packs. Additionally, the suspension systems on military packs tend to be subpar. When I was young, poor, and stupid, I carried a USGI Large ALICE pack. Do not do this. Please.

Revision Sawfly glasses

Next up is eye protection. You only get two eyes, and they do not grow back.

These should be impact rated, and have both clear and tinted lenses, so you're covered regardless of time of day. 90% of the time these are only really useful as sunglasses, but when working with a helicopter, protection from thrown objects in the rotor wash is important. The other time impact protection comes into play is when pushing through very dense brush; you don't want a stick in the eye.

For those of you with good eyes, I'd suggest a set of Sawfly glasses from Revision eyewear. Developed for the military, these will stop a shotgun blast. The set I've used in the past has grey-tinted, clear, and red-tinted lenses. The red is useful for overcast days. However, these run about $60-80, depending which lens set you get. If you're on a tight budget, I'd recommend two pairs of hardware-store safety glasses, one with a tinted lens and one clear.

Personally, I require corrective lenses, and contacts cause some nigh-insurmountable problems during extended field work. However, my standard "around town" eyeglasses from the optometrist aren't sturdy enough for this sort of work. I opted for two pair of Revision Hellfly ballistic glasses, which Revision offers with prescription lenses for a pretty reasonable price (about $200 a pair, which is about half the cost of comparable offerings from Oakley, Wiley-X, ect).

M & Ms with obstacles

MRE

NM SAR requires "food for 24 hours minimum of 2300 Calories, recommend 3000 to 4000 Calories, with a 30% fat, 60% carbohydrates, and 10% protein ratio.)" I can tell you now, nobody ever does the math, except maybe at field certification. And you do not need 4000 calories of food in your SAR pack.

I have never, ever had time to sit down and eat a meal on a SAR mission while in the field. Keep some MREs, mountain house, or other long-term shelf stable food in your truck or in a bin with spare gear that goes into your truck for SAR missions. If the IC tells you that you'll be going on an extended trip into the field, then you can grab the aforementioned food and be on your way.

However, for general short-term work, particularly missions in the Sandias, I carry M&Ms with obstacles (trail mix), some jerky, and some sunflower seeds. Maybe an energy gel if I'm feeling fancy. All of this is stuff that can be eaten on the move or during short stops. I define short term as any deployment that's going to be over in 12 hours or less, which is nearly all of them.

Even on a long mission that runs for several operational periods, you'll get an assignment, go perform the assignment, and generally return to base to debrief. At this time you can scarf some real food before you go back out. Carrying 2 or 3 full meals in your pack just doesn't make sense; food is heavy unless you use dehydrated food, which uses water, which is also heavy.

Platypus Big Zip 3L reservoir

Speaking of which. Water.

We live and work in the desert. Water replenishment opportunities in the field will be few and far between, if they exist at all, so filtering water as you go is generally not an option. This means you have to carry as much as you could possibly need, with a little extra to treat a dehydrated subject. At 2.2 pounds per liter, it's likely the heaviest thing you'll carry. The state sets a 2 liter minimum. I carry 4 liters, and have been on missions where I've used every drop.

In temperate weather, I'm a strong advocate of hydration reservoirs, colloquially known as camelbaks. I've used offerings from the titular Camelbak brand, Osprey, Source hydration, and several others, and I've settled on the above-pictured Platypus Big Zip as the best option. The top zipper is robust, makes it easy to clean, and isn't prone to crossthreading like a lot of filler caps for these things. It has a shut-off valve at the end, which is a nice touch.

Additionally, the point where the hose meets the bladder has a quick-disconnect, self sealing valve. I can disconnect it and pull out the bag part to refill, without having to thread the hose back through the straps and whatnot that secure it to my shoulder strap. Also without having to deal with the hose flopping around in the sink while I'm trying to run water.

In addition to the reservoir, I carry a nalgene canteen. There are two reasons: first, if the reservoir freezes, leaks, or otherwise fails, I've still got something to drink. Second, I can hand this to a teammate or a search subject a heck of a lot easier than I can share water from my reservoir.The reason I chose a canteen over the more traditional round 1L bottle is because it fits on my pack's hipbelt a little more sleekly.

In wintertime, I replace the reservoir with another three of these. The reason for that is that the narrow column of water in the hose is very prone to freezing, and once it freezes, there's really not a practical way to get water out of the thing, so bottles or canteens are a more sensible water carrying tool for cold weather.

Spyderco Endura 4 FFG

Next the list calls for a knife. Choice of knife is a very personal thing. However, there are a few basic tenets to follow. First, ergonomics. You want a knife that feels good in your hand. Light weight is definitely a plus, as every ounce of gear will translate to more weight on your legs out in the field. I prefer a knife with a brightly colored handle, so that if I set it down I can find it again easily.

There are three broad categories of knife that you might choose from: fixed blade, folding, and multitool. Fixed blade knives ride in a sheath, and have no moving parts. This improves durability, but they tend to be heavier and bulkier than folders. Folding knives do not require a sheath, as the blade folds into the grip, saving the weight and bulk of a sheath. This is what I would generally recommend for SAR use, as you will not be doing high-stress knife activities (batoning to split wood comes to mind) which might require a fixed blade knife in SAR.

Finally, some members prefer a multitool such as a Leatherman, which has screwdrivers, pliers, saws, and other tools in addition to a knife blade. While I do carry a multitool in my daily life, I generally leave it at home on SAR missions. It is heavy, and most of the tools such as screwdrivers just do not have any application in a wilderness setting. I carried it in SAR out of habit for a very long time, but eventually realized that I wasn't using it very often at all. I'd occassionally use the pliers to pull out cactus, but tweezers work better and are lighter.

Personally, I carry a Spyderco Endura 4. It's a larger folding knife, with a 3.5" blade (3.75" if you include the unsharpened portion near the hinge). However, for such a large knife, it's comparatively light at 3.4 oz. The locking mechanism is solid, with no discernible blade wobble in use, and the texturing of the bright orange handle is very grippy without being uncomfortable. It feels very natural in the hand. These blades can be had for about $60.

If you're on a tight budget, I recommend Columbia River Knife and Tool as a decent manufacturer that offers knives at reasonable prices. A basic knife like their M-16 can be had for about $30, and will take good care of you.

Fire steel

Storm matches

Tinder sticks

I carry several fire starters. Fire can be a temperamental mistress, and so having more than one option is useful. I have a striker steel and storm matches (which have much more phosphorous than standard matches, and so work in less perfect conditions) as ignition sources.

Additionally, I carry little starter sticks that are like a seriously miniaturized version of the fire logs you can buy at the grocery store. These serve as very good tinder, particularly when everything in your environment is wet. As a side note, when you try to light something like this, break it up first to increase the surface area. I also carry cottonballs with petroleum jelly rubbed into them for the same purpose.

I used to carry a 15 minute road flare as my firestarting trump card. However, the potential benefit wasn't enough to justify hauling the thing around in my bag.

Suunto MC-2

The state specifies a "compass with 5 degree accuracy." Pretty much any quality orienteering compass will stand you in good stead. Get one with a clear baseplate for map work. Some of the nicer models have adjustable declination, and a mirrored cover to make taking bearings easier. These features aren't a requirement, but the mirror in particular is helpful.

I have a Suunto MC-2. For a piece of equipment that won't be used very often, it's quite expensive at $40. For a beginner, I'd recommend something cheaper, as we generally only navigate by compass for team training and evaluations, and not during real-world missions.

Example of a topographical map

The state packing list calls for a 'map of the search area.' While you could purchase quality 1:24,000 topographical maps of the entire state of New Mexico, such an endeavor would be ruinously expensive.

For Cibola members, you will be given topo maps of the Sandia mountains, which are our usual stomping grounds. This is covered by the one-time membership fee. For members of other organizations, you may want to purchase maps of whatever area the majority of your searches take place in. Consider buddying up on the purchase with some teammates, as your map supplier may offer bulk discounts.

For out-of-district missions, the best solution is to have a GPS receiver with mapping capability, and keep a basic NM state topo loaded on it. However, receivers that support maps tend to be the higher-end units, and may be an excessive expense for a new member. For that matter, a GPS isn't even required by either the state or Cibola. On the other hand, it's a Really Good Idea, and no incident commander in their right mind is going to send out a team without at least one.

One alternative is using a smartphone or tablet with GPS mapping capability. Most devices have a built in GPS antenna, though you need additional software to use it to full effect. I've heard good things about an app called Backcountry Navigator, though I haven't used it myself. Keep in mind though, your phone or tablet is much more fragile than a GPS built for wilderness use, and the batteries are generally not field-replaceable.

The other realistic option for out-of-district missions if you don't have a GPS with maps is to find a free topo map of the search area before you hit the road and print it out. It's not ideal, because a crappy map you found online and printed on 8.5x11 paper is not nearly as good as a proper map. However, it's vastly superior to nothing at all. Some team members have various mapping software on their home computers (Such as National Geographic's topo software) that will generate higher-quality maps than what you'll find on Google.

Storm Whistle

You need a whistle, to attract the attention of search subjects, as well as to attract the attention of other rescuers if you become lost or injured during a search.

I've read several independent studies comparing various whistles, with varying degrees of scientific accuracy (ranging from formal decibel measurement with sophisticated equipment, to Bubba asking Freddy to go over yonder hill and tell him which one is more louderest). The winner, as far as I know, is the Storm Whistle, pictured above. It's ugly, it's bulky, but it works.

If you carry one of these, stick your fingers in your ears before you blow it. Warn others nearby to do so as well. If you don't, you will hurt yourself.

Signal mirror. Note mesh sighing hole.

Next is a signal mirror, for attracting the attention of aircraft if you become lost, or for signalling your position to search aircraft that are interacting with your team. It is hard to see individuals in a woodland environment from a moving aircraft, and I've been told by aviators that these things look like a strobe light.

You don't need to carry a huge one; the credit-card sized ones are sufficient. I'd recommend the plastic-cased ones over glass, as they're more durable and lighter. For the State certification (and for general use, because they Work Better), get one with the mesh sighting hole in the middle. Finally, learn how to use it before you have to use it.

Fenix HP 12

Nitecore P10

Next on the list is a light source. I would put some money into this, as the vast majority of SAR takes place at night. The state gives the option between a flashlight or headlamp, but I would recommend that you carry both. The headlamp is your workhorse for ground SAR, and the hand light makes a nice backup light in case your headlamp suffers a catastrophic failure.

Carry extra batteries, and consider standardizing a battery type (AA, for instance), so you don't have to carry a bunch of different batteries. The state requires replacement bulbs, but frankly, you should not be using an incandescent light source. LED technology has come far enough that incandescent flashlights just cannot match LED performance, and LED's don't burn out, so you won't have to deal with spare bulbs.

For the headlamp, I recommend something that's at least 100 lumens, and water resistant (rated at IPX-4 at minimum, IPX-7 preferred). Most lights from reputable brands will do the job; look at Petzl, Black Diamond, Princeton Tec, Zebralight, Fenix, and Nitecore. Fenix and Nitecore are my personal favorites; they use aluminum in their construction, so they're slightly heavier than plastic offerings by other companies, but many of their products offer outputs nearing 1,000 lumens. I'm a lumen addict, so I consider this adequate, at best. By comparison, a standard mini mag-light is about 15 lumens. Most lights at REI are 50-100 lumens.

A word on red 'night vision friendly' lights. The idea is that red light is less harmful to your eyes' ability to see in the dark. First off, most of the studies I've read have indicated that light's effect on the pigment that allows low-light vision is a function of intensity more than color. Thus, a very-dim white light will have about the same effect on your eyesight as a dim red light.

On top of that, the real reason the military is so fond of red lights for tactical operations is that red isn't perceptible at as far a distance as a white light of equivalent intensity. This is good for when you're trying to read a map without getting shot. It is not good for when you're in the woods looking for a lost person, who may be attracted to your lights and thus conclude the search a heck of a lot sooner. Additionally, red lights tend to make your perception of what you're seeing a little...weird. This may lead you to miss a critical search clue. Forget red lights, flood the area with enough white light that you don't have to worry about protecting your night vision. Unless you're getting shot at.

I would look for a headlamp that has the batteries on the back of the head, rather than one with everything up front, as the balanced arrangement is more comfortable over time. Additionally, you can put your knit cap over the battery compartment to keep the batteries warm in the winter, while the LED itself is exposed to the cold. Warm battery/cold emitter is as close to a perfect operating condition as you'll find for these lights, in terms of efficiency. As I said earlier, standardize batteries between your lights, so you can pirate the batteries from your hand light to keep your headlamp going if needs must.

Additionally, I'd invest in some good rechargeable batteries. Except in exceptionally cold weather, there's just no sense in using and throwing away primary cells. If you're using AA or AAA, I recommend Sanyo Eneloop batteries, which are low-self-dishcharge, which means they'll hold a charge on the shelf (or in your pack) for a lot longer than normal NiMH batteries.

I use lights that take an 18650 rechargeable, which is a specialized lithium cell that's roughly equivalent to two CR123a primary cells. I like this because I don't have to fumble with multiple cells when changing batteries, and lithium batteries are more resistant to cold. Additionally, 18650-powered lights tend to have higher output with lower battery weight than AA-powered lights. However, the batteries I use cost about $20 each and take a special charger, so your budget (and your wife/husband/accountant) may be happier with something that runs on AAs.

If you choose to use a light that takes an 18650 rechargeable cell, buy batteries with a protection circuit, as those without tend to 'energetically vent.' Avoid any rechargeable batteries with 'fire' in the name (ultrafire, ect), as they tend to be made in China and are typically of poor construction.

An illustration of 'energetic venting'

Additionally, do not use rechargeable CR123a equivalents in a two-cell flashlight, because lithium rechargeable batteries do not play nicely in series. This arrangement will also have a tendency to energetically vent. For a two-cell light like the Nitecore P10 above, you can either use two lithium primary cells, or a single lithium rechargeable 18650. Two lithium rechargeables is NOT an option.

My first aid kit

Moving on. I'm a flashlight nerd, sorry. However, the next section is also gonna be a little longwinded, since I'm a Emergency Room nurse in real life.

The state doesn't provide guidelines for what should be in your first aid kit, which is somewhat unhelpful. However, it's important to keep in mind that this is not intended to be a major trauma kit. This is for treatment of minor injuries, primarily among yourself and your teammates.

The nature of SAR medicine is such that, by the time we encounter a subject, the illness or injury has been ongoing for hours or days, and thus, the subject will typically be in a stable condition. Most of what we treat is extremity injuries, dehydration, and hypo/hyperthermia. Thus, even for EMTs and other trained responders, carrying a bunch of gear to treat acute trauma just does not make sense. With one exception: tourniquets.

The US military spends insane amounts of your money training soldiers, sailors and marines. Thus, a troop that bleeds to death is a massive lost investment. Therefore, the military spends a bunchaton of time and money figuring out what works for trauma. The research is overwhelmingly pointing to the fact that improvised tourniquets using a triangle bandage, belt, ect are terrible at stopping arterial bleeds.

Thus, get a purpose-built tourniquet. Get one that's designed to be used one-handed, as you might be applying it to yourself if everything really goes wrong. Learn how to use it before you need it. There are a lot of brands, but as far as I can tell, the winner in efficacy is North American Rescue's Combat Application Tourniquet (CAT). They're not cheap (about $30) but they work great for stopping arterial bleeds on extremities

Note: you're not going to be using this on a search subject. By the time you reach him, if he needed it, he'll have exsanguinated. This is for you or your teammates, should the worst happen.

I would advise you to build your own first aid kit. Commercially available prepacked kits, while convenient, typically contain a lot of unneeded crap, and the stuff you do need will be of low quality. Make a boo-boo kit with adhesive moleskin, assorted bandaids, and neosporin. Additionally, have a couple gauze pads, some tape, and an ACE bandage. Finally, some non-latex surgical gloves to protect you from a patient's blood and body fluids. Avoid latex in all components of your kit, as some teammates and subjects may be allergic.

A CPR barrier mask is...probably useless. If somebody in the wilderness needs CPR, they're probably out of luck. Even if said person is one of your teammates and CPR is started as soon as they collapse. Good, quality CPR buys you about 20 minutes. It does not bring people back from the dead. Defibrillation, epinephrine, and amiodarone do that, and rarely. It's gonna take longer than 20 minutes to get a helicopter spun up.

A SAM splint may be useful, but I tend to leave mine in the truck due to space and weight considerations. For those of you who aren't familiar, it's a sheet of very thin aluminum between two pieces of foam, and when formed into a curve, becomes rigid and can be used as a splint. They're nifty, but I'd just as soon use a hiking pole or a tree branch if a splint is needed, and not carry an additional piece of gear. Always weigh utility vs. space and weight.

I'm going to step onto my soapbox briefly and explore a pet peeve of mine. If I see you with a 'snakebite kit,' I will personally build a fire and burn the thing. Suction devices, tourniquets, and razor blades have no place in the proper treatment of snake bites. In many cases, the use of such devices will MAKE THE DAMAGE WORSE. The appropriate treatment of snake bite is to keep the victim calm, keep the affected extremity below the level of the heart, and evacuate to a medical facility for evaluation and treatment.

Okay, off the soapbox. Deep breath.

That does, however, lead me into my final point on the subject of first aid kits. Do not carry any medical tool which you're not trained to operate. Don't carry drugs you're not certified to dispense. Don't try to perform procedures you saw on TV. Don't try to perform a cricothyrotomy with a pen because you saw MacGyver do it. This should go without saying, but...it really doesn't.

Space blanket

SOL emergency bivy

Moving on down the list, we have a space blanket. If you're not familiar, these are very thin, metallic sheets which will reflect your body heat. This is useful for treating hypothermia, or for preventing yourself from getting hypothermic if you end up lost or stuck somewhere.

In addition to a standard space blanket, I carry an 'emergency bivy' by SOL (which officially stands for Survive Outdoors Longer, but...well, let's just say that acronyms can mean lots of things). It's basically a space blanket that's been folded in half and had two edges bonded together, so it forms a square sleeping bag. Spending a night in the thing wouldn't be a fun experience, but in combination with a fire, it'll keep you from dying until rescue arrives.

Rite in the Rain notebook

For writing paper, I like Rite in the Rain notebooks. They contain waterproof paper, and are simply awesome, because you don't have to worry about your notebook getting saturated with water and losing all the coordinates, subject description, and whatever other information you wrote down during the briefing (As an aside, take notes at the briefing, don't expect your team leader to catch it all).

The state requires a pencil or pen. I would carry both, as well as a sharpie. There are pens, typically marketed as 'space pens,' which use a pressurized cartridge and can right in wet, upside down, ect, but they're expensive. A cheap ballpoint pen is sufficient for things like sign-in sheets. For notes in the field, you don't need them to be indelible, so a pencil is fine. I'd carry a wood one that you can sharpen with your knife, rather than a mechanical one. Mechanical pencils tend to be rather more delicate.

Tubular webbing. Note the open space in the center, from which the name is derived.

On to the final item on the NM SAR packing list: 20 ft of 1 inch tubular webbing. This should be climbing-spec webbing, and can be found at REI or similar stores. It is useful for creating an improvised harness (swiss seat) for yourself or for a cliffed-out subject, or for tying a subject into a stokes litter that doesn't have a built in restraint system.

For Cibola members, this will be provided to you, along with your maps. For members of other teams, again consider buying in bulk and divvying it up among several of you. If you buy a long piece and cut it, make sure to melt the ends with a candle or lighter so that they don't fray.

Casio ProTrek PRW 3000

Moving on, there are a couple of items that Cibola SAR requires in addition to those detailed above from the state packing list. The first is a wristwatch. You need to keep a close eye on the time in order to stay on top of half-hour radio check-ins, for the most part. Additionally, for medical personnel (First Responders, EMTs, ect), the watch is important for the measurement of respiratory and heart rates.

While watches have fallen somewhat out of favor in urban life recently (as most folks just use their phone as a timepiece), the phone doesn't quite cut it for SAR use. First, phones are rather fragile, and you'll typically want to store it in a waterproof container of some kind inside your pack, so getting it out every time you need to check the time is cumbersome. Additionally, battery life is an issue.

I wouldn't spend a fortune on a watch, particularly not if you don't wear one in daily life. However, I'd advise you to go a little higher-end than the bargain brand walmart watches, as the water resistance of those is suspect at best. Casio is an excellent brand from which to get a functional watch for a reasonable price; one of their entry-level watches that tells time and not much else can be had for around $30. Look for one that's water resistant and has a backlight. Additionally, many of their watches are solar powered, so there is no need to worry about batteries.

You can get watches with more outdoor-oriented features. I have the above-pictured Casio Pro-Trek PRW 3000, which has an altimeter, barometer and compass in addition to normal watch functionality. Honestly, however, I rarely use those features. At the very high end, you can find watches from Garmin that act as a wrist-top GPS receiver. However, the screen is too small and the functionality too limited for it to be a reasonable replacement for a handheld GPS in SAR work.

Tarp shelter

Next on the Cibola list is "Shelter materials." This can be a bivy sack, tube tent or light tent, or tarp. In your SAR pack, this is not something you'll use routinely. Rather, it's intended to keep you alive until rescue arrives if you become lost or injured. In my experience, the IC prefers that you return to base to sleep, rather than sleeping in the field. There have been rare exceptions, but they do happen.

There's no sense in carrying a full-featured backpacking tent. An emergency bivy like the SOL one I talked about earlier, or a silnylon tarp, will meet the need while keeping pack weight down. If you choose to carry a tarp, learn how to pitch a shelter with it before you end up needing it.

Various trail tape colors

trail tape used to mark a tree

The final item on the Cibola list (and I really, truly cannot figure out why this isn't on the State list) is trail tape or surveyor's tape. This is a non-adhesive tape that can be tied around a tree or something to mark a path you've followed, a search clue, or another item of interest.

For Cibola members, this will be provided for you, with your maps and webbing. For others, it is generally available at Home Depot for a reasonable price. You'll want to carry a sharpie with this, as you'll be expected to mark it with time, date and team number if you're using it to mark a search clue.

Cascade Mountain Tech trekking poles

I'd like to add on a few of my own recommendations. Note that the items listed below are not required by the state or Cibola. However, I find them useful.

The first is some collapsible hiking poles. They're walking sticks. You can find cheap ones at Wal-Mart which will do the trick without any extra frills. I'd advise getting slightly nicer ones, specifically something with interchangeable baskets. In deep snow, you'll want snow baskets, which are typically 3-4" in diameter and help keep the pole from sinking into the snow.

A couple other features to look for other than snow baskets: you want collapsible ones, so you can attach them to your pack when not in use. I prefer the cam locks to the twist locks, as I find them less prone to failure. Carbon-fiber construction is nice, because it makes the pole lighter than aluminum, but it's not a requirement. 

While it's very possible to go crazy and spend several hundred dollars on high-end poles, I wouldn't. The ones I use are carbon fiber poles from Cascade Mountain Tech, which you can occasionally find at Costco for around $50. Also available on Amazon.

Garmin eTrex 10

Garmin GPSMAP 64s

Garmin Foretrex 401

Garmin Montana 680t

Garmin Oregon 600

The next thing I recommend is a quality GPS receiver. This is how we navigate in SAR; map and compass orienteering simply takes too much time by comparison, and in this business, time is life.

You have a couple options, and frankly, they're all made by Garmin. In my experience and the experience of people I've discussed the subject with, receivers from Magellan and other companies just don't keep up in terms of quality.

The GPSMAP 64s has become something of an industry standard within NM SAR. It's accurate, it has a built in compass, it has a reasonable amount of buttons, and it supports maps. However, it is bulkier and heavier than the others I'll discuss. These retail for $250-300

The eTrex 10 is Garmin's entry-level model. It doesn't support topo mapping, it has no compass (so the GPS cannot tell which way you're facing unless you're in motion), and the little thumbstick thing is an infuriating way to try to control the device. However, it's smaller and lighter than the GPSMAP series, and you can get one for just under $100, so this is the route you want to take if your budget is tight.

The Foretrex 401 has a compass, but does not support mapping, and the buttons are minimal at best. However, it's the most compact of the units Garmin offers, and it has a strap that allows you to wear it like a wristwatch, so you don't need to mess with a pouch or something on your backpack harness.

Finally, the Oregon- and Montana-series units dispense with buttons entirely in favor of a touch screen. I can see that this would be more optimal in terms of entering coordinates. However, they're bulky, expensive ($300 for the Oregon, and $600 for the Montana), and I can see the massive screen being a point of vulnerability to damage.

Note ID panel on left shoulder strap

I've been trying to start a trend of wearing a patch or something similar with your name on it. So far it hasn't caught on, but I think it would be very useful. You won't always be working with people you know by name; there are always new faces on the team, and we work quite often with people from other teams in the Albuquerque area, and around the state. It's much more better to be able to call someone by name than to go with 'hey, you, in the orange shirt.'

I get the reflective name tapes available here. If that's not your speed, the same company offers plain fabric tapes in a bewildering variety of colors here.

OR Crocodile Gaiters

Ankle gaiters are gore-tex tubes that fit around the tops of your boots to keep snow, ice and debris out of your boots. I only use mine in the winter, but I know several folks that wear them year-round to protect from rocks and cactus.

I use Outdoor Research's Crocodile gaiters, which I bought in 2010 and are still going strong. Whatever brand you choose, make sure they have a hook on the end for boot laces, and adjustable instep strap, and an adjustable strap at the top.

Kahtoola Microspikes

Next I'd advise you to get some winter traction devices, with Katoola Microspikes being the example. These are like tire chains for your feet, and are used when the snow isn't deep enough to justify snowshoes, nor is the ice thick enough to require real crampons. As an aside, I've never felt the need for crampons. Then again, I've never felt the need to climb a frozen waterfall.

Showshoes are important for deep-snow missions where postholing is just not realistic. Make sure to get a pair with agressive traction teeth on the underside, and make sure they're big enough to support the weight of you and your gear. The bigger the shoe, the more 'flotation' it provides. Most manufacturers rate their shoes based on how much weight they can handle.

MSR offers shoes with a removable 'tail' to add extra flotation. I would not get these, as I've seen them come off in use, which is unsatisfactory, to say the least. If a teammate doesn't notice, your expensive tail thingie is lost forever. Get shoes that can support you and your stuff without having to attach extra doodads.

A climbing helmet and harness, while not required, may be useful in missions on which you support a technical rescue team, or you're operating at the bottom of a cliff and you're concerned about falling debris. Look for light weight, and something that fits your head comfortably. Also look for ventilation slots, and clips of some kind to hold your headlamp. Cibola, with the assistance of a grant from Firehouse Subs, purchased a bunch of Black Diamond Vector helmets that seem to be working pretty well for us.

With respect to the harness, the less padding it has, the smaller it will pack down, but the less comfortable it will be if you have to sit in it for any length of time.

A radio of some kind is useful. Teams need to be able to talk to each other, and to incident base. However, don't run out and spend hundreds of dollars on a radio if you're just starting; you have other financial priorities. Those of us who've been around a while have comms pretty well covered.

Cibola members, we used some of that Firehouse Subs grant to buy some radios. Get with the Gear Committee Chair, there may still be some available.

Sea to Summit dry bags

Pelican Micro Cases

Finally, everything in your pack that's water-sensitive should be stored in waterproof containers. For most items, such as clothing and cold weather gear, roll-top dry bags are sufficient. I've had good luck with offerings from Outdoor Research and Sea to Summit. Ziploc bags are generally not good enough, as the zips are prone to leaks, and the bag itself will wear out and cease holding water rather quickly.

For particularly delicate equipment such as cell phones and spare batteries, look into a Pelican micro case. These are crushproof and very water resistant, and offer a lot of peace-of-mind.

So where do you buy all this stuff? Locally, I'd recommend shopping at REI and Sportsman's Warehouse for a lot of things. Additionally, there's a local shop called Outdoor ReGear which is a consignment shop with a lot of really good deals on used packs, clothing, and other gear. Nice people, somewhat odd hours, check to make sure they're open before you go.

Of course, you can purchase literally anything made by the hand of man on the internet. Sierra Trading Post is a very good resource, as they have a lot of high-quality stuff for relatively low prices. Amazon is also a good place to look for a lot of this stuff. Additionally, don't forget to check eBay, you may get lucky.

As a final note, this list is a minimum. As you gain experience in SAR, you'll add and remove items from your pack. However, a word of warning: always, always weigh the potential usefulness of an item against its weight and the space it takes up in your pack. You have to haul all this stuff, sometimes for a long time, so be cautious about throwing a bunch of unneeded crap in your pack. I suggest emptying your pack every six months, and removing anything that hasn't been used in that time frame that isn't critical emergency equipment like a firestarter.

If you have any questions about the above, don't hesitate to contact me. Cibola members, you all have my email address and can reach me that way. For everyone else, please leave a note in the comment section below if you have questions.